How to Wash Dishes

Dishwashing in the 21st Century

Washing dishes may appear to be the simplest task in kitchen work. As modern kitchen tools have become increasingly complex, the concept of "washing dishes" has long since transcended its literal meaning. However, many people’s understanding of dishwashing remains stuck at the "old-fashioned" stage of "wiping dishes with a towel." Some households, due to long-term unscientific dishwashing methods, have even laid the groundwork for potential health risks (such as exposure to carcinogens). To help everyone master scientific, efficient, and modern dishwashing methods, this guide provides a detailed overview of the dishwashing process, important considerations, and common pitfalls to avoid.

The Purpose of Dishwashing

Whether you hand-wash or use a dishwasher, the ultimate goal is the same: to return your tableware to a state where it is safe to use again. Specifically, this means simultaneously meeting the following criteria:

1. Looks clean: No oil film, water spots, food residue, or fingerprints on the surface.
2. Feels clean: Run your finger along the bottom of the bowl, the handle of the spoon, or the inner rim of the cup. If there is no sticky feeling, it is clean.
3. Smells clean: No sour oil smell and no harsh detergent odor.
4. Dry and ready to use: No visible standing water after draining or wiping, and no dampness when stored.
5. No cross-contamination: Tools used for raw meat have not contaminated already washed tableware.

Only when all five of these points are satisfied can the tableware be considered properly cleaned.

Tools Required

Modern kitchen cookware comes in a variety of materials (non-stick coatings, cast iron, enamel, wood, stainless steel, etc.), and different materials require different cleaning tools. Choosing the wrong tool is a common pitfall. Cleaning-related tools are already assumed to be available in the kitchen setup. When washing dishes, it is recommended to ensure the following items are accessible:

热水（优先）、冷水、洗碗槽、洗碗盆（可选）、洗碗海绵/百洁布
洗涤剂、钢丝球（仅限不锈钢锅具，禁用于不粘锅/涂层）
沥水架、干净抹布或厨房纸巾、手套（可选）
洗碗机（可选，详见后文）

Key Points for Tool Usage

• Sponge/Scrubbing Pad: The top choice for everyday dishes. After use, squeeze out excess water and air-dry in a ventilated area to prevent the sponge itself from molding or developing an odor.
• Steel Wool: Use only on hard, uncoated surfaces such as iron pots and stainless steel pots. Do not use on non-stick pans, ceramic-coated cookware, or fine porcelain, as it will damage the coating.
• Dish Cloth: The cloth used to dry dishes must be kept separate from cloths used for wiping stovetops or floors. Mixing their use renders the washing effort pointless.
• Dishwasher: If you have a dishwasher, you can skip the main hand-washing process, but you still need to perform the preliminary scraping of food residue and post-wash storage. See the "Dishwasher" section later in the text for details.

Overall Process

Many people only follow a two-step process for washing dishes: "add detergent → rinse with water." This is far from sufficient. A scientifically sound dishwashing routine should include the following steps:

收集分类 → 刮渣浸泡 → 清洗去污 → 漂洗去洗涤剂 → 检查 → 干燥 → 收纳

Each step plays an irreplaceable role; skipping any of them may leave potential risks. The following provides a step-by-step explanation.

Detailed Steps

1. Collection and Classification

After eating, first gather all the scattered bowls, plates, chopsticks, spoons, pots, cutting boards, and other items to the side of the sink, then sort them by level of contamination.

It is recommended to wash them in the following order (from lightest to heaviest contamination):

1. Light contamination: Glass cups, water cups, chopsticks, spoons
2. Medium contamination: Dish plates, rice bowls
3. Heavy contamination: Stir-fry pans, deep fryers, baking trays, containers with stuck-on egg residue
4. High risk: Cutting boards and knives used for raw meat or raw fish (recommended to be cleaned last and separately)

Why categorize them: Wash lightly contaminated items first so that the water and sponge remain relatively clean and do not transfer heavy grease onto cups. Clean tools used for raw food last and separately to avoid transferring pathogens onto already washed tableware.

2. Scraping and Soaking

This step is often skipped by many people, but it directly determines the difficulty of subsequent cleaning. Removing stubborn residues in advance means you won't need to scrub repeatedly during the main wash, saving both effort and water.

Procedure:

1. Use paper towels or a spatula to scrape off large chunks of residue and dispose of them in the kitchen waste bin. Do not flush them directly down the drain, as this can easily cause clogs.
2. Soaking is required in the following cases:
   • Dried rice grains, starch paste
   • Coagulated protein residues (egg liquid, milk residue)
   • Burnt pans, scorched bottoms
3. Soaking methods:
   • Regular grease, rice grains: Soak in hot water for 5–15 minutes
   • Burnt/scorched pan bottoms: Soak in hot water with a small amount of detergent, or first bring water to a boil, then turn off the heat and let it sit for 10–20 minutes
   • Tea stains, limescale on stainless steel: You can soak in a small amount of white vinegar and then scrub (do not mix with bleach-based products)

3. Cleaning: Degreasing and Decontamination

This is the core step of the entire process. The recommended water temperature is warm to hot (approximately 40–50°C). Hot water effectively reduces oil viscosity, significantly improving cleaning efficiency. If you have a faucet with adjustable water temperature, it is recommended to set it directly to the appropriate temperature.

Standard hand-washing steps:

1. Turn on the faucet, or prepare a basin of warm water in the sink.
2. Squeeze a small amount of detergent onto the sponge (size of a mung bean to a soybean, approximately 1–2ml is sufficient) and work up a lather.
3. Scrub in the order of "outside → inside, handle → head, edge → center":
   • Bowls: Scrub the outer wall first, then the inner wall, focusing on the inner bottom of the bowl.
   • Plates: The plate surface, rim, and bottom.
   • Chopsticks and spoons: The tips of chopsticks and the heads of spoons are the key contaminated areas.
   • Pots: The pot bottom, walls, and rim. Don't forget the oil splatters on the outer side of the pot.
4. For stubborn stains, first use the rough side of the sponge to apply localized pressure and scrub. Do not start with a steel wool scrubber immediately.
5. Cutting boards and knives:
   • Raw meat cutting boards: After scrubbing with detergent, you can rinse with hot water. Disinfect regularly when conditions permit.
   • Knives: Scrub with the blade facing away from you to avoid cuts.

Using more detergent does not mean cleaner results. Using too much only increases the workload for rinsing later, and residue left on the tableware is also undesirable.

4. Rinse: Remove Detergent

After washing, you must thoroughly rinse away all detergent and dissolved dirt with clean water.

Procedure:

1. Thoroughly rinse each dish under running clean water until the following conditions are met:
   • No foam remains
   • No slippery or greasy feel when touched
   • A uniform water film remains on the surface (if oil has not been washed away, water will bead up instead of spreading evenly)
2. Detergent tends to remain in the rims of cups, the recesses at the bottom of bowls, and the seams of pot handles; rinse these areas for a few extra seconds.
3. If you use a static rinse in a basin, it is recommended to change the water at least once, and finally rinse under running water.

5. Check

Check each piece of tableware:

• Look: Hold it up to the light and check for any oily film or reflections.
• Touch: Gently run the pad of your finger along the inner wall to see if it feels sticky.
• Smell: Bring it close to your nose to check for any sour or detergent odor.

If it doesn't pass, go back to Step 3 and re-wash the specific area. Do not proceed to drying while any part remains unclean.

6. Drying

Washing something clean does not mean it is ready for immediate use—a moist environment is a breeding ground for bacteria. Many people assume the task is complete once the dishes are washed, but if they are stored while still wet, the previous effort may have been in vain.

Optional approaches:

Method	Specific Operation	Applicable Scenario
Drain	Invert on a draining rack and allow to air-dry naturally	Most common for daily use; effortless
Wipe Dry	Use a clean, dedicated cloth to wipe until no visible water droplets remain	Urgent storage needs; preventing water spots on glassware
Heat Dry	Use dishwasher drying mode or warm air	Bulk processing

Note:

• When draining, try to invert or stand on the side to avoid water pooling in the concave areas of bowls and plates.
• If the cloth itself already has an unpleasant odor or is damp and sticky, wash the cloth first before using it to wipe dishes.
• Do not use the cloth that just wiped the stove to wipe dishes.

7. Storage

Once you've confirmed the dishes are dry, put them back in the cabinet or on the dish rack.

A few basic rules:

1. Don't put away while wet: Storing damp dishes in a cabinet can lead to bacterial growth and unpleasant odors.
2. Before stacking bowls and plates, ensure the bottoms are clean. Do not press dirty bottoms against the inner walls of the bowls below.
3. Place chopsticks, spoons, and forks with their tips pointing up, or follow the orientation designed by your draining basket to maintain ventilation.
4. Store knives and cutting boards used for raw food separately from everyday tableware.

Recommended Cleaning Order

If you wash the entire set at once, it is recommended to follow this order:

1. 玻璃杯 / 杯子
2. 筷子、勺子、叉子
3. 盘子、碗
4. 锅铲、汤勺等炊具
5. 炒锅 / 煮锅（重油）
6. 生食案板与刀具（最后，并单独清洗水槽）
7. 冲洗水槽与龙头把手（收尾）

The principle is: clean from low to high, so that heavy grease at higher levels doesn't drip back down and dirty the areas already cleaned.

Handling Tableware Made of Different Materials

It is common in modern kitchens to use a mix of cookware and tableware made from various materials, but the cleaning methods for different materials can vary significantly. Using the wrong method can, at best, damage the utensils and, at worst, pose health risks.

Non-stick Pan

• Use a soft sponge and a neutral detergent, then gently scrub.
• Do not use steel wool or hard scrapers on the coating, as this will damage the coating and ruin the pan.
• Dry the pan after washing to avoid prolonged water accumulation.

Cast Iron Pan / Carbon Steel Pan

• Use little to no detergent to protect the oil film on the pan's surface.
• Hot water and a brush are sufficient to remove any residue.
• After washing, dry it thoroughly, warm it on low heat, and apply a thin layer of cooking oil to prevent rust.

Wooden Cutting Board / Wooden Spatula

• Rinse quickly; do not soak for extended periods, as the wood may crack or warp.
• After washing, stand upright to air dry.
• Periodically apply cooking oil for maintenance (cutting board).

Chopsticks

• Focus on washing the end that contacts food (the chopstick tips).
• Bamboo and wooden chopsticks are prone to water retention and cracking, so be sure to let them dry completely after washing.
• If severe mold or cracking appears, replace them immediately; do not force yourself to continue using them.

Dishwasher

The dishwasher is one of the most efficiency-enhancing tools in a modern kitchen, but it is not a universal machine where you simply "toss the dishes in and be done." It still requires manual cooperation to deliver its best performance:

1. Scrape off large food residues (such as bones and vegetable leaves) first; otherwise, they can easily clog the filter and spray holes.
2. Load the dishes according to the dishwasher's manual: place bowls with their openings facing down and plates standing vertically. Be careful not to obstruct the rotation of the spray arms.
3. Select the appropriate program—use the heavy-duty or high-temperature setting for greasy dishes, and the quick wash or eco mode for lightly soiled everyday items.
4. After the cycle is complete, open the door and inspect the dishes, paying special attention to the recesses at the bottom of bowls and the inner rims of cups. If any spots are not clean, wash them by hand.
5. Regularly clean the dishwasher's filter and door seal to prevent odors and mold growth. It is recommended to clean the filter every 1–2 weeks and run a cleaning cycle with a dedicated detergent once a month.

Air Fryer

The basket and bottom plate of an air fryer are the primary components requiring cleaning. Many people simply wipe them and put them back, but over time, oil residue can carbonize, affecting heating performance and food safety.

• After each use, allow the machine to cool down, then remove the basket and bottom plate. Wash them with warm water, detergent, and a sponge.
• Food particles often get stuck in the grid gaps of the basket. You can use an old toothbrush or a small brush to help clean these areas.
• Do not scrub the basket with steel wool—most baskets have a non-stick coating, and using steel wool will damage the coating, leading to food sticking and coating peeling during subsequent use.
• If oil splatters are present on the inner walls of the main unit, simply wipe them with a damp cloth. Do not submerge the main unit in water.
• If the heating element (top) has oil stains, gently wipe it with a damp cloth after it has cooled. Oil stains left uncleaned can smoke or even produce harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures.

Rice Cooker

Most rice cooker inner pots feature a non-stick coating, which must be carefully protected during cleaning. Many people overlook the cleaning of the steam valve and the inner side of the lid.

• Clean the inner pot using the soft side of a sponge + detergent. Do not use steel wool. Once the coating is scratched or peeled off, rice will stick to the pot, and detached coating fragments may mix into the food.
• The inner side of the lid, steam holes, and sealing ring are easily overlooked areas—starch steam condenses into sticky residue in these spots, which can sour and develop an unpleasant odor over time. It is recommended to wipe the inner side of the lid after each use and regularly remove and clean the sealing ring.
• The outer casing of the cooker should only be wiped with a damp cloth. Do not submerge it in water, to avoid damaging the electrical circuits.

Pressure Cooker / Electric Pressure Cooker

The focus of cleaning a high-pressure cooker is not on the pot body itself, but on safety-related components such as the sealing ring, exhaust valve, and lid. If these parts are not cleaned thoroughly, it can affect hygiene and compromise the sealing performance, posing safety risks.

• Sealing Ring: Remove it after each use and wash with warm water and detergent. Food residue and oil deposits easily accumulate in the grooves of the sealing ring, so scrub carefully. Allow it to air dry before reattaching. Replace the sealing ring promptly if it shows signs of aging (hardening, deformation, or cracking).
• Exhaust Valve / Pressure Regulator: Disassemble and rinse with clean water to ensure the valve holes are clear and unobstructed. If the valve holes are clogged with food residue, it may cause abnormal pressure release during the next use.
• Lid: The inner side and the grooves along the lid's edge tend to accumulate grease and food residue, requiring thorough wiping and cleaning.
• Inner Pot: Clean it using the same methods as for regular stainless steel or non-stick pots, selecting tools based on the material of the inner pot.

Oven

The oven's baking trays, racks, and interior walls all require regular cleaning. Many people only clean the baking trays, neglecting the racks and interior walls. Over time, grease buildup can carbonize, producing smoke and even affecting the flavor of the food.

• Baking trays: Clean them while they are still warm (be careful not to burn your hands) using detergent and a sponge. Once they cool down, the grease will solidify and become much harder to remove. For stubborn, baked-on residue, soak them in hot water for 15–30 minutes before scrubbing. Lining the trays with aluminum foil or parchment paper can significantly reduce the difficulty of cleaning.
• Racks: The gaps in mesh racks are the hardest part to clean. You can place them in the sink, soak them in hot water mixed with detergent, and then scrub them with a brush.
• Interior walls: Once cooled, wipe them with a damp cloth and a small amount of detergent. If grease stains have carbonized and turned black, mix baking soda with water to form a paste, apply it to the stains, and let it sit for 1–2 hours before wiping it off. Do not use steel wool to scrape the oven's interior walls, as this can easily damage the surface coating.
• Some ovens have a self-cleaning function (high-temperature pyrolysis). You can use it according to the manual, but you will still need to wipe away any remaining ash afterward.

Microwave Oven

The inner walls and turntable of a microwave oven are easily stained by splattered food liquids and grease. If left uncleaned, they can develop unpleasant odors over time. Additionally, old food residue can be repeatedly heated during use, producing burnt smells.

• Turntable: Remove it and wash it just like any other glass or ceramic dish.
• Inner Walls: Wipe them with a damp cloth and a small amount of detergent. If there are dried food splatters, place a bowl of water with a few slices of lemon inside the microwave, heat on medium for 3–5 minutes, and use the steam to soften the stains before wiping. This will make cleaning much easier.
• Door Seal: The sealing strip along the door frame is a commonly overlooked area. Grease and crumbs tend to accumulate in the gaps, so it should be wiped with a damp cloth regularly.
• Do not use cleaning tools containing metal components on the inner walls of the microwave, as this may damage the internal coating.

Steamer / Steamer Basket

The most common issues after using a steamer and its steaming trays are limescale buildup and starch residue.

• Stainless steel steaming tray: Wash with regular detergent and a sponge. Food residue (such as the bottoms of steamed buns or baozi) can easily get stuck in the tray's holes. Clean these promptly, as dried residue is very difficult to remove.
• Bamboo steamer basket: Do not use detergent; wash with hot water and a brush instead. Bamboo absorbs detergent odors, which can permeate food during the next steaming session. After washing, ensure it dries in a well-ventilated area to prevent mold growth. Discard any bamboo steamer that has developed mold.
• Steamer pot body: Limescale (white crystalline deposits) tends to accumulate on the bottom. Soak in white vinegar for 10–20 minutes before scrubbing to remove.

Spatula / Ladle / Strainer

These tools are used daily, but the cleaning methods differ depending on the material:

• Stainless Steel: The most durable option. You can use a steel wool scrubber without worrying about scratches. Pay attention to the gaps at the handle connection, as grease tends to accumulate there.
• Silicone: Clean with a sponge and detergent. While silicone is heat-resistant, it easily absorbs colors and odors (especially from curry and ketchup). If discoloration is severe, soak it in a baking soda solution. Do not use steel wool on silicone surfaces, as it will leave scratches that trap more dirt.
• Wooden: Treat them like wooden spatulas and cutting boards: wash quickly and dry immediately; do not soak. For details, refer to the previous section on "Wooden Cutting Boards / Spatulas."

Peeler

The gap between the blade and the groove of a vegetable peeler is extremely narrow, making it easy for vegetable skin fibers and starch to get trapped inside. Many people simply rinse it under running water after use, which does not actually clean it thoroughly.

• Use an old toothbrush to scrub the gaps along the direction of the blade (be mindful of the direction to avoid cuts).
• Shake off excess water after washing and air-dry it in a well-ventilated area. If a stainless steel peeler remains damp for extended periods without being dried, the blade can rust and become dull.

Kettle / Electric Kettle

The main issue with a kettle is not oil stains, but limescale.

• Limescale removal: Pour in white vinegar or citric acid (about 1–2 tablespoons), fill with water, bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and let it soak for 30–60 minutes. After draining, rinse 2–3 times with clean water. In areas with hard water, it is recommended to descale every 1–2 weeks.
• Do not scrub the inner walls of the kettle with a steel wool pad, as it can easily scratch the stainless steel surface. Scratches make it easier for limescale to adhere.
• Limescale also accumulates inside the spout and the lid. Be sure to clean these areas as well.

Frequently Asked Questions and Common Pitfalls

Below are the most common mistakes and misconceptions in the dishwashing process, organized by type. Each item includes specific consequences—understanding "why it shouldn't be done" is the key to truly avoiding these pitfalls.

Cleaning Habits

• Rinsing without scrubbing: Simply rinsing with water won't remove the oil film. Grease is insoluble in water, so you need the surfactants in dish soap to emulsify the grease, combined with the physical friction of a sponge to remove it. The result of only rinsing is that the bowl looks clean on the surface, but a thin layer of oily film remains, feeling slippery to the touch. Next time you serve food, it will pick up the rancid smell of the degraded grease.
• Using too much dish soap: More foam does not equal a cleaner dish. Once the detergent concentration exceeds a certain level, the cleaning power does not continue to improve. The consequence of using too much is that it becomes very difficult to rinse off completely during the rinsing stage, and the residual detergent will be ingested along with your next meal. While long-term ingestion of detergent residue will not cause immediate poisoning, it irritates the gastrointestinal mucosa, and there is no need to take this risk.
• Washing only the inside, ignoring the outside and bottom: Many people only scrub the inside of the bowl when washing dishes, neglecting the outer walls and the bottom. When bowls are stacked, the bottom of the upper bowl directly touches the inner wall of the lower bowl—if the bottom is dirty, it means the lower bowl was washed for nothing.
• Drying without thorough rinsing: Taking bowls out to drain while they are still covered in detergent foam. Once dried, the detergent forms a dry film on the bowl's surface, which enters your body with food during the next use. The check is simple: touch it with your finger; if it still feels slippery, it hasn't been rinsed clean.
• Leaving dishes unattended overnight: Starch and protein residues left at room temperature overnight dry and harden significantly, requiring several times more effort to scrub the next day. More importantly, at room temperature in summer, food residues begin to breed large amounts of bacteria after 2–4 hours, making overnight dirty bowls essentially a petri dish. If there are meat residues in the bowl, they will also attract cockroaches and fruit flies.

Tool Usage

• Using a steel wool scrubber on non-stick pans: Steel wool will scratch the non-stick coating (typically Teflon). Once the coating is damaged, it will continue to flake off. A damaged non-stick pan not only loses its non-stick properties, but the flaked coating fragments can also end up mixed into food. Furthermore, once the coating is compromised, the bare metal surface is exposed, making the pan prone to sticking and burning. The correct approach is to clean non-stick pans using only the soft side of a sponge.
• Washing dishes with a dirty rag or smelly sponge: Sponges and rags that remain damp and are not dried properly become breeding grounds for bacteria and mold. Using a smelly sponge to "wash" dishes is essentially just smearing bacteria onto them. The same logic applies to rags—using a cloth that just wiped up grease from the stovetop to wipe dishes merely moves the dirt from one place to another. It is recommended to squeeze out sponges and let them air dry after each use, and to wash rags at high temperatures regularly or replace them.
• Scraping enamel or ceramic coatings with hard tools: Enamel pots and cookware with ceramic coatings have relatively brittle surfaces. Using metal spatulas or steel wool to scrape forcefully can chip the enamel or scratch the surface. Once the enamel chips off, the underlying metal is exposed. This not only affects heat distribution but also makes the exposed metal prone to rusting.
• Keeping the faucet running on full flow while washing dishes: Running the tap continuously throughout the washing process can waste dozens of liters of water per session. A better approach is: first, turn off the water and use a sponge and detergent to scrub all the dishes, then turn the water on to rinse them all at once.

Material Damage Category

• Soaking cast iron/carbon steel pans for extended periods: Cast iron and carbon steel lack a rust-proof coating (or rely on a layer of oil film for rust prevention), and prolonged soaking in water will cause them to rust rapidly. Once rust appears, it is not only unsightly but also requires re-seasoning if the corrosion is severe. The correct practice is to wipe them dry immediately after washing, dry them over low heat, and then apply a thin layer of cooking oil.
• Using large amounts of detergent on cast iron/carbon steel pans: Detergents will wash away the carefully built-up oil film on the pan's surface, leading to severe food sticking during the next use. For daily cleaning of cast iron and carbon steel pans, hot water and a brush are sufficient. For stubborn residue, you can add coarse salt and scrub.
• Rinsing a hot pan directly with cold water: After cooking, the pan is at a high temperature, and rinsing it directly with cold water causes drastic thermal shock. Stainless steel pans may deform, and cast iron pans may even crack. Rinsing with cold water when residual hot oil is present can also cause oil and water to splatter, potentially causing burns. You should allow the pan to cool slightly before washing.
• Soaking wooden cutting boards/wooden spatulas in water for extended periods: Wood expands when it absorbs water and shrinks as it dries. Repeated cycles of this process will lead to cracking and warping. Once a wooden cutting board develops cracks, food residue and bacteria can easily accumulate in the crevices, making it difficult to clean thoroughly. The correct practice is to wash quickly, dry quickly, and store it upright to air dry.

Health and Safety Hazards

• Putting damp dishes directly into the cabinet: Placing them in a closed cabinet without letting them air-dry creates a warm, humid environment that is ideal for bacteria and mold. Within a few days, you may notice mold spots or unpleasant odors on the dishes, and other tableware in the cabinet may also be affected.
• Washing raw and cooked utensils together: If cutting boards and knives used for raw meat or fish are washed directly with other dishes, pathogens such as Salmonella and E. coli from the raw food can spread to other tableware through the water. The correct approach is to clean utensils used for raw food last, separately, and if necessary, sanitize them with hot water or a disinfectant.
• Failing to clean the drying rack regularly: If the drip tray at the bottom of the drying rack is not emptied and washed periodically, stagnant water can develop an odor and grow mold. This can lead to secondary contamination of the dishes drying on the rack due to evaporating dirty water. It is recommended to clean the drying rack and drip tray once a week.
• Water accumulation at the bottom of the chopstick holder: If chopsticks are stored with the tips pointing down in a holder that lacks drainage holes or is not cleaned regularly, water can accumulate at the bottom and cause mold. Since the tips are the part that contacts food, storing them in dirty water is equivalent to using moldy chopsticks with every meal. Choose a chopstick holder with drainage holes or store the chopsticks with the tips pointing up.
• Continuing to use moldy bamboo or wooden chopsticks: Once black mold spots appear on bamboo or wooden chopsticks, the mold has penetrated deep into the wood fibers and cannot be removed by ordinary washing. Some types of mold (such as Aspergillus flavus) can produce potent carcinogens. Moldy or cracked bamboo and wooden chopsticks should be discarded and replaced immediately.

Other Easily Overlooked Pitfalls

• Putting food residue into the dishwasher without scraping it off first: Many people assume the dishwasher can handle everything. Large food particles (bones, vegetable leaves, rice grains) can clog the filter and spray arms, reducing cleaning performance. In severe cases, they can even damage the drain pump. Always scrape off any visible solid food residue before loading the dishwasher.
• Neglecting regular dishwasher maintenance: If the internal filter, door seals, and spray arms are not cleaned regularly, grease and mold will accumulate. This not only causes washed dishes to have an unpleasant odor but can also turn the dishwasher itself into a source of contamination. It is recommended to clean the filter every 1–2 weeks and run an empty cycle with a dishwasher-specific cleaner once a month.
• Rinsing food waste directly into the drain: Starchy residues like rice grains, noodles, and vegetable leaves can expand and form clumps in the drain pipes, leading to blockages over time. Grease flushed down the drain will solidify on the pipe walls, accelerating clogs. The correct approach is to scrape solid food waste into the trash bin first and install a drain strainer in the sink to catch any stray particles.
• Mixing detergent with chlorine bleach: Some people add both dish soap and 84 Disinfectant (chlorine bleach) to the wash water in an attempt to achieve "double sterilization." However, mixing these two can produce harmful gases that irritate the respiratory tract. If disinfection is required, wait until the normal washing and rinsing cycles are complete, then soak the dishes separately in the disinfectant, and finally rinse thoroughly with clean water.

Summary

Cooking is about transforming ingredients into an edible state, while washing dishes is about restoring the kitchen to a condition where it can be used for cooking again. These two tasks form a complete cycle—if you cook but don't wash the dishes, the kitchen quickly becomes unusable.

By mastering scientific dishwashing techniques, making good use of modern kitchen tools, and understanding the correct handling methods for different materials, you can make dishwashing both efficient and safe. Developing the habit of "washing as soon as you're done using an item and putting it away immediately after washing" is essential for sustaining the long-term practice of cooking.